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Bolt hole: The Cotswolds aren’t all Chelsea tractors and designer wellies by Chris West
The hotel: next time someone says that they’re going to the Cotswolds, ask them which one. There’s “the Cotswolds”, where west Londoners go to play in the inverted commas, but have to wipe their feet before they get back in the Cayenne, and there’s the Cotswolds: grounded and pretty, the kind of place where pheasants left hanging by the neck outside restaurants eyeball you as you walk in.
In the former, you can’t beat Barnsley House. In the latter, you have the Dial House – and, having recently fled London’s smug problem, that’s where we went. Built in 1698, it’s a classic chunk of honey-coloured stone sitting solidly in the middle of Bourton-on-the-Water, with 13 rooms, flagstone hallways and a great chef.
The rooms: the decor is deep, passionate colours and lush wallpapers with soft, lazy furnishings – ideal for soft, lazy, passionate or maybe just lush weekends. All the rooms are individually furnished with the owners’ interesting, one-off antiques. Three of the rooms have four-posters and fires; all are nonsmoking and, even better, nonchildren.
Disappointingly, the kettle and cup sets are very ordinary, a perfect fulfilment of the description “tea-making facilities”, but somehow lacking the panache of the rest of the styling. I suppose the tea that comes out of them is just as good, though. Apologies for straying into “the Cotswolds” for a moment there. The food: the restaurant is small, just 26 diners, split between two rooms. Adrian, the owner, was worried that the party in the Inglenook Room might be a little too lively, so, as we were a couple, he placed us out of harm’s way in the Gold Room. Little antique mirrors are tied with a ribbon and placed randomly around the walls, reflecting light back off the wall sconces.
The menu is for people who believe a good meal leaves you feeling full, rather than amused. I had loin of Gloucester Old Spot (£17.50) – good and earthy – on a purée of potato, cut with a calvados jus. Adrian will recommend wines to sit alongside each course; so, although I know that my wife also ate, I can’t remember what she had. She seemed happy. What to do: Bourton-on-the-Water draws hordes of tourists, but if you stay at the Dial House, you can leave early enough in the morning to beat the jam of coach parties, make a visit to Sudeley Castle (the site of Liz Hurley’s wedding), burn off last night’s dinner with a long walk over the hills and be back in Bourton when all the coach parties have gone, leaving just you and the little river running under the stone footbridges. One for romantic fools? Definitely, but even more so when the hotel’s Summer House dining room is ready. There’s an old wooden rotunda in the gardens, just big enough for a table for two. There’ll be soft lighting and a bell to call the waiter from the hotel, so you can be left undisturbed. Just be sure to make it back to your room before romance gets a grip of you, you fool. What if I’m just a fool? “The Cotswolds” have plenty of other places that will welcome you.
Dial House, Bourton-on-the-Water, Gloucestershire; 01451 822244, www.dialhousehotel.com, doubles from £110, B&B
The 'Venice of the Cotswolds', and such a peaceful setting, with sandstone Georgian houses and the slow, meandering River Windrush drifting by. Cotswolds travellers are drawn to the genteel buzz of Bourton village life. There's lots going on, and in its midst stands The Dial House. Inside, Jane and Adrian have created an oasis of old-world charm, with Jacobean-style furniture, wonderful four-posters, old portraits and impressive stone fireplaces. Elegant yet friendly, it epitomises the traditional country-house hotel. The best bedrooms are in the main house, with views of the village and river through leaded window panes, lovely antiques, a refreshing lack of chintz, Penhaligon smellies and organic chocolates. Rooms in an extension look out on to the walled garden, and the classic English menu takes a lot of beating.
For something much more classy head for The Dial House which offers pure luxury at incredible rates. It's one of the best places to stay in the Cotswolds. The rooms are bright and modern and subtly mix traditional, hand-painted wallpaper with contemporary design features, big comfy beds and luxurious lines. The restaurant should be your first port of call for food and serves up excellent-value modern British cuisine.
Bourton-on-the-water is one of Gloucestershire's 'honeypot' villages. In summer, coach parties queue to absorb the postcard scenes along the waterfront. Dial House (named from the sundial above the front entrance) is one of the finest of its golden stone buildings, dating from 1698. Set back from the main street, and with large, secluded gardens to the rear, it avoids feeling too buffeted by tourist throngs. The house is immaculate; interior decor clearly interests the owners. Rich fabrics, antiques and stylish colours enhance the two cosy dining rooms and the bar-lounge, where guests study smart, ambitious menus. Lunches are relatively informal, attracting many non-residents, but at dinnertime it's a candlelit, intimate, romantic place, with a roaring fire in chilly weather. Bedrooms in the main house have been renovated with great panache (eye-catching beds and clawfoot baths); some in the coach house annexe still await refurbishment.
We stayed at The Dial House Hotel for 2 nights in March and had a faultless stay. The hotel possesses a perfect location from which to explore The Cotswolds, a modern yet rich decor, a charming lounge with log fire, and an excellent restaurant. But the best feature were the extremely professional yet incredibly welcoming staff. We strongly recommend this hotel.
The staff were a charming change from the usual "Get you seated, get you fed, take your money", brigade. This is the nicest lunch we've ever had out. The hotel is immaculate, clean, very well furnished and there was a roaring log fire ready for pre-prandial drinks.
The Hotel looked great as we drove in and the welcome was warm and friendly. We stayed in room 3 which was a cosy double with a four-poster bed and a great roll top bath which was great after a 230 mile journey. Had a great glass of champers on the house followed by a lovely meal. Bourton on the Water is a gorgeous village and we took a small walk before getting a great nights sleep. Breakfast was excellent and had one of the best cups of tea I have ever had. All in all, a great place! Definitely put it on your list!
Quite the most charming hotel I've ever stayed in with undoubtedly the friendliest management.
The owner, manager and staff were all wonderful - friendly, helpful and attentive. The highlight of our stay was undoubtably the food! Dinner was amazing (especially the dessert), with imaginative choices, all of which were beautifully presented. Breakfast was perfect too - lots of choice, and again, a real work of art.
A beautiful hotel, perfectly situated in Bourton-on-the-Water. My daughter and I spent 3 nights at The Dial House and used this as our base for the Cotswolds. [It was] the highlight of the 3 days, knowing we were returning to this hotel and their delicious meals of an evening. Rooms were more spacious than anticipated by European standards and immaculate with every detail. The staff were extremely attentive yet not intrusive. All meals were by far our finest and most delicious experienced in UK. Can't wait to return, a magnificent stay.
Having stayed at The Dial House in June we went back six weeks later for my partner's birthday - and it was as wonderful as it was the first time. This time we stayed in one of the four poster rooms in the main building - wonderfully tasteful yet luxurious furnishings (the owners have a good eye for colour and fabric!) As mentioned in other reviews, the breakfast is lovely as are the lunch and dinner. We tried the lot - there's no point eating anywhere else in the town. We would recommend this hotel without hesitation - the owner and his staff are great. Professional, friendly and helpful - you can relax when you are there. Take a look for yourselves. You won't be disappointed. We will be going back again before Christmas.